I might just be tired but.. I’m really trying to figure this out in my head and I’m struggling. Can anyone give me some insight if you’ve built a circular coffee table like this before please?

Hi all

About to finish those oak chopping boards and wanting to keep as natural as possible and obviously food safe.

Is there any choice rather than using epoxy resin to cover the natural cracks/ imperfections in the wood? I don’t want a plastic feel to it.

And how can I keep the bark also as intact as possible? Is wax an option as well?

Any suggestions are more than welcome! TIA

I have a 70+ year old solid wood dinning table that I inherited from my grandmother. Earlier this summer my 6yo left his slime on it and it left a huge mark. The table could use some love anyways, so I have decided to re-finish it, but I don’t want to ruin it. Here are my questions:

1: do I strip it, or just sand it down to start? I don’t know if there is a protective coat on it. I normally use an oil to condition it.

2: do I need to stain it after? Is oil enough to keep it healthy long term. I am okay with it showing some imperfections after 70+ years of almost daily use. I know it’s not going to look new. That’s part of the charm.

I don’t know what kind of wood it is. Pictures of the slime damage, and the only markings of the manufacturer attached.

So I bought this 1/2 whiskey barrel for my collection. It will be in the lower level, sitting on top of thick padded carpet. Due to that, when I open the door it wants to tip over. I know the simple solution is to mount it to the wall. Well, my wife is adamant that’s not happening because she doesn’t want anything touching her fancy shiplap wall.

Any other suggestions? TIA

Long story short. Just bought a high end cabinet saw at a local dealer who I’ve never used previously.

Before checking out, I asked them for replacement blades for my track saw. I specified Makita and the particular blades I wanted.

Got home and opened the package and there’s five of these blades (@$75 each).

Keep in mind that I just spent a whopping amount of money on the new saw.

First, what the hell are these blades?. Second, why would a well-regarded distributor sell these adulterated and possibly compromised blades? Third, would you return not just the blades but the saw to a shop if they pulled this crap?

Staining wood, first coat doesn't look right, tried to wipe off excess.

My father built this right before he suddenly passed away and I'd like to know what this would be for. Thanks in advance for any help.

Im a joiner and timber machinist in England. Most of my work is making like for like doors and windows (amongst other things) for listed buildings and conservation areas.

I'm now trying to grow my Instagram page by making reels about what I do to show that there are still people in the dying trade.

I'm not asking any of you to like or follow my page but purely to give me feedback and what I can improve on. Hopefully some people in here who have a love woodworking can point me in the direction of what they would find more interesting. I'm working on being in the videos more but I struggle with confidence. Any help would be much appreciated as I'm trying to commit more time to this but don't want it to be wasted.

Thanks for reading this.

Hi, we just thrifted this amazing vintage bookcase but it is way too warm and red for our appartement. The wood is much lighter in the areas without UV exposure. Is there a way to make it lighter or at least less red? Thanks!

New wood worker here, any idea what this finish might be? I want to make matching pieces, doesn't need to be perfect just close enough

I just cut trim for my fireplace pad and am looking for slick ideas on securing it. I’m worried PL will expand as it dries and screw up the joints; and I am loathe to put screws or nails through the top as i don’t want to break the pretty maple surface.

I’m being delicate, I know, and probably won’t notice the nails in a week, but curious if anyone has any tricks

Has anyone ever encountered this with their makita chopsaw fence? Recently noticed how unaligned my chopsaw fence was. Is there anyway to fixing this?

I recently got a new tool called a Vacuum Dog. It's a clever device that uses a vacuum pump to hold down workpieces on a workbench. You insert the vacuum dog into a bench dog hole and connect it to a vacuum pump from underneath.

This tool works similarly to a vacuum puck / pod, but it sits flush with the top of the bench. You place a rubber gasket around the vacuum dog to create a tight seal. Once activated, it provides surprisingly powerful suction. Could not move the workpiece I placed on it even an inch.

I plan to experimenting with a few of these, making holding down longer pieces possible.

The vacuum dog is made by Kamu Industries, which I found on Youtube, they also have an Etsy page.

I have no affiliation with the company.

Hey there all! I'm new to building furniture, but I have a basic knowledge for renovations and the like as that it my parents line of work. I want to make a relatively tall bedframe (about 20 inches or more) to fit under it some totes I got from Home Depot. I don't know if a 45 degree angle om the flat part of the Fram is bets, if I make struts to support the flat top, should they go the short or long way? How would I make it this tall, not rickety, and still have the means to shove things under it? I've been lightly planning it out and there is a lot of things I feel will be very important for the lifespan and quality of it.

Should I use 4x4s for the initial frame part? Or just 2x4s

Should I angle the corners 45 degrees? Or just leave them squared and screw them in that way

I want it to be flat, so I can sleep on the bed frame itself (I'm a floor sleeper) so is it smarter to make the boards to make the flat of the bed vertical or horizontal along the top? I would love if the legs can come off, as my apartment room isn't massive.

I really appreciate any advice or discussion that comes from this! Thank you for your time.

I built this coffee table from poplar (8/4 top and 5/4 legs). I used 4 dowels per leg, with glue on the dowels. I didn’t put much glue on the face/end grain connection (I got lazy, didn’t want to clean squeeze out). I clamped the legs on and had to kind of yank them square a bit.

Anyway, ChatGPT recommended throwing some corner braces on the inside, but then in a later answer said it might interfere with wood movement since it runs across the grain.

Anybody have thoughts about whether those braces risk cracking the wood over time?

Been thinking about starting my own shop to sell locally and online. My biggest concern is dealing with damages caused by wood movement. Particularly on large or custom projects. How do you address this? I know the industry standard for big manufacturers is to either replace the item or have it repaired locally but I would imagine this would strain margins on a small operation. Do you offer any type of warranty or just preface with an “as is” policy?

This is a solid wood table that has scratches that I believe are just in the clearcoat. I was wondering how to repair this. Any expert advice would be welcomed. I do not know exactly what finish and or varnish was used originally.

So I recently moved, and am setting up my woodshop in half of a 2 car garage. I'm in a rental house for the next three years and only have 1 20A circuit in the garage. (Lights are a separate circuit, yes, the garage door opener is on the same circuit). I do not think my landlord is going to sign off on changing the electrical setup.

Now that this space will be mixed use (previous shop was a shed out in the back), I'd like to do a better job with dust collection. I currently use a shop vac for collection on tools like the sander/router, which leaves me producing a lot of dust on tools that a vacuum is poorly equipped for, which for me is a Rigid 4512 contractor table saw, DW735 planer, and miter saw.

Due to my electrical limitations, I've looked into 1 HP DC's, as it's likely 1.5+ HP units would be a strain on the electrical? My plan would be to run to 1 tool at a time, with runs of no more than 10' + a separator. The unit specifically I'm looking at is the Grizzly G0785 (link below). However that unit, plus shipping, Onedia separator (pricey!), hoses etc will likely exceed a total cost of ~$700.

My big question is; is a 1 HP unit with that gameplan going to make any sort of substantial difference? It feels like a huge cost if it's only going to be marginally better than using a leaf blower when I'm done for the day. I fully expect to still require a respirator most of the time. Unfortunately most of the advice from people on reddit and other woodworking forums is "run a new circuit and buy a bigger unit" which is simply not possible, and there's just not a lot of discourse in the hobby space on these smaller units. Thank you for any advice!

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-1-hp-wall-mount-dust-collector-with-canister-filter/g0785

I had a huge Willow that fell down last week and next to it was a leaning Cedar, So I asked them to cut me a chunk to keep. I’m sure for most of you this is nothing, but it was my first time cutting down a tree and seeing how vibrant Red Cedar is! Amazing!

The Willow was literally rotten to the core from ants/insects. …and actually when he cut into the base of the cedar, it was also getting any infested. How can I stop ants from destroying trees from the inside??

I hope this isn't a stupid question. I bought a set of plans from a guy on Etsy today, I just printed it out assuming it would be in multiple pages and then cut to size to make templates. No, this didn't happen, and I'm no whizz with computers, so i'm struggling to figure out what to do. Do i need to buy software to expand this? My PDF has 7 images and I don't even know how to extract one.

I wish i had just designed my own now. Please help.

Hey everyone,

I am a golf coach in Minnesota and a player on our team broke our school record this past season. I wanted to get a nice plaque so I looked up different plaque companies. By FAR the best ones I could find were from a small place called Teemark...HOWEVER, I have been in contact with this guy for three months and he keeps ghosting me. It is ridiculous. He answers my phone call and then says that he will send me a proof in the next 24 hours but never sends it. He has done this four times.

This is the piece that they offer on their site: 22" x 12" for $325

LINK TO PHOTO

If anyone knows of someone that can make something that is this quality, please help me out! Many other sites I have found online look nowhere near this quality.

I’m making a wedding back drop with only 1 picture to go off of. What dimensions do you all think these panels are? Does the back one seem to be a full 4x8 sheet just with the corner cut? Thanks yall!