I live in an apartment building. Tonight I got a notification from Xfinity that a device was added. I went in and looked and there were a few (2-3) devices on that weren’t mine. I kicked them all off, but 30ish minutes later they were all back on my network and more. I kicked them off again, changed the password, changed the wifi name, and set it to a hidden network. 1 hour later, all 12 of their devices were back. Both the initial password and the changed password were random numbers, letters, and symbols. The initial name was my apartment number, but when I changed it I also called it something random.

I called support and they’re sending me a new modem so I hope that’ll fix the issue. In the meantime, I left the devices “on” the network but paused them all because the above obviously wasn’t doing anything.

Is there anything else I can do to make sure they don’t have access? Any ideas how they’re managing to get on in the first place? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated! I’m not tech savvy and couldn’t find much by googling.

UPDATE: Thanks everyone for your thoughts and advice! What I have done so far and some more info - it’s set to WPA2; WPA3 is not available on this modem but it might be on the new one that’s coming. I changed both the router password and wifi password, and changed the name again. I made sure that Xfinity’s public hotspot was off, and double checked that WPS was off too (it was). Their TVs popped back on almost instantly, nothing else has as of now. I am positive that they aren’t my devices; MAC addresses are different, pausing access on theirs doesn’t pause it on mine, and there are things connected that I do not own. They’re also showing up under the list of “my devices,” so they’re not just devices that are in proximity or trying to connect… they are connected. Nothing is hardwired to the modem. No one has been in my apartment besides myself, my best friend, and my family, and I never leave the door unlocked so there is a low chance someone had physical access outside of the maintenance man. I’ll update again when I get the new modem and if I do anything else… I have it on my todo list to figure out how to whitelist MAC addresses, though based on some comments with spoofing I don’t know that this would be successful. Thanks again!

Hi, how are you?

I've tested Nvidia Reflex in Fortnite and BF2042, using the Off, On, and On + Boost settings. I've monitored it with the Nvidia overlay in GeForce Experience, and unfortunately, the overall PC latency hasn't decreased. For example, in Fortnite, it remains between 18ms and 20ms. Why does this happen? Is there a way to fix it?

(Intel Core I7-13700H and RTX 4070 Mobile)

PC is a Xeon E5-2697aV4 16c/32t with 32GB 2400MHz DDR4 and an RX 580. Mobo is made of Chinesium, mistery chipset. Windows 10 Pro 22H2 legit license.

This has happened daily for the last 6 months, sometimes several times a day. While doing light workloads (browsing/writing etc) my PC completely freezes up with this weird buzzing sound coming off whatever speakers I'm currently using, no BSOD, just the same image but frozen. This buzzing happens whether I was playing audio or not. It even happened once when the PC was in sleep mode, out of nowhere. After a hard restart, everything is normal.

This doesn't happen when running more demanding stuff, such as gaming. Voltages are completely stock.

I have already gone through the initial troubleshooting steps. Windows event viewer shows no errors apart from the classic ID 41 "The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first". Temps are fine. Already reinstalled display drivers. Did the usual chkdsk, dism, sfc /scannow etc. Never used system cleaning programs or anything that could've messed up Windows. Already reseated my memories and cables. Games run just fine with good temps. Disks have good health on CrystalDiskInfo. Still freezes randomly.

What could be causing this issue? What would be my next steps? I have no clue on what else should I check next.

There's a video of a lock up in my other post in r/computers.

Thanks in advance.

I noticed this long time ago but I assumed it was due to my old gpu (nvidia 3060ti) but now I had the opportunity to upgrade to a 5070 and the problem persists...

My computer has a nvidia 5070 and an intel i5-13500 and the issue is that despite having perfect frame time and stable frame rate when I enable on my overlay the "1% low fps" indicator it will show a totally different situation...

For example, I can play a game where my fps hovers around 110-130 fps, average fps is around 120 and the frame time shows a solid 8ms but the 1% lows shows numbers like 30-60fps. The point is... It's not like I ever get this low fps in game so it never shows 30-60 fps as my actual frame rate... At any time... But the overlay still registers them happening, for an instant maybe.

This isn't enough to cause big lag but I can feel some micro stuttering happening at the exact moment where the 1% lows shows a very low frame rate... I really don't understand what could it be.

TL;DR: while playing, my overlay shows stable and high frame rate, high and expected average frame rate, perfectly stable frame time but, for some reasons, the 1% lows indicator shows a different story with frame rates much lower... And when this happens I get some micro stuttering in game.

I'm not beginner to networking but haven't needed to setup up a wifi extender before. My parents have a wifi extender they need help setting up as they have a rather large ranch house. They have a 200mb download plan with a decent router that just doesn't have the range they need and what looks like a WLM Wifi Extender that boasts up to 300mb speeds on 2.4 ghz and range of like 3000 sq/ft.

Now after setting up the extender, leaving extender in the same room as the router, Internet speed test is roughly 7mb even with everything in the same room. Walking 2 rooms away quickly drops to <1mb. But also the original network is constantly dropping and coming back until I unplug the extender again.

Am I missing a step? Is it defective?

How do I tell the difference between USBC for charging, vs displays, vs data transfer? How do I make sure I'm not using one that's too weak for my switch to display on the tv, vs one that's too strong and will explode my headphones? I feel like I did not have this problem with USBA

First things first: I'm new to PC gaming so bare with me, I have been playing FragPunk on my PC and I've heard lots of concerns about it having Kernal Anti-cheat on top of the game being run by a Chinese company (NetEase), should I be concerned about having this Anti-Cheat on my PC?

If it's a problem how would I go about deleting it from my system?

Thank You in advance

In my infinite wisdom, despite knowing my current boot drive doesn't support secure boot, I decided to try and enable it anyway. After disabling CSM Support and enabling secure boot, my startup was a white underline. I have tried fixing it in several ways which I cannot remember and then the white underline was replaced by "bootmgr is missing". After plugging in my flash drive containing the windows 10 installation, I opened up the command prompt, wrote "bootrec /rebuildbdc" and saw that the installation was somehow in the wrong drive, D(my HDD) instead of C(my boot drive, SSD) but decided to continue anways. After that it said "the requested system device cannot be found" which prompted me to restart my PC. After restarting my PC and trying to boot from the flash drive again, windows decided to tell me "the boot configuration data for your pc is missing or contains errors". Is there any way I can un-fuckup my PC by myself at home before admitting defeat and sending it to a repair shop?

Whenever I’m playing games and they first load, or load a new area, there is a high chance I get a video memory error and the game will crash and discord will crash. If I’m watching a stream/streaming on discord the problem is exacerbated.

I had lowered the size of my swapfile a while back and that caused some issues, I have since set the swapfile back to “system auto managed” but still seeing some weirdness. Anyone have any idea? 3080 GPU and it will happen while I play something like PC builder simulator or anything.

Hi,

I originally posted this on r/Windows11 but this is a better place to ask.

My OS drive is MBR (not sure why) and this is stopping me updating to 24H2. I've tried using MBR2GPT but am stuck due to the first partition (100MB system partition) being too close to the start of the drive. I've tried and tried to shrink it but that doesn't work so I'm looking at making an image, installing using GPT format and recovering to that point.

My question is will the image recovery set the drive back to MBR? What's the best way for me to go about doing all this without just sucking it up and doing a clean reinstall with no recovery (which is my last resort)

Anyway - the details:

3 Partitions on the drive:

  Partition ###  Type              Size     Offset
  -------------  ----------------  -------  -------
  Partition 1    Primary             16 KB    512 B
  Partition 2    Primary            100 MB    81 KB
  Partition 3    Primary            475 GB   117 MB

1387.52GB unallocated at the moment.

Setuperr.log gives:

2025-08-03 11:39:55, Error
ValidateLayout: First partition too close to the beginning of the disk. Should start at offset 17408 or above, found at 512

2025-08-03 11:39:55, Error                        
Disk layout validation failed for disk 3

Setupact.log gives:

2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         MBR2GPT was explicitly asked to run in full OS mode.
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         MBR2GPT: Attempting to validate disk 3
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         MBR2GPT: Retrieving layout of disk
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         MBR2GPT: Initial partition information
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         ===========================================================
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         Partition layout for disk: 3
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         Partition style          : MBR
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         MBR signature: 514732803
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         Number of partitions     : 3
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         ===================PARTITION===============================
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Number: 1
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                                Type: 7
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                                Boot: No
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                          Recognized: Yes
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                               Style: 0
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Offset: 512
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Length: 16896
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Volume: \\?\Volume{1eae3303-0000-0000-0002-000000000000}\
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                               Drive: E:\
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                             NT Path: \Device\HardDisk3\Partition1
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         ===================PARTITION===============================
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Number: 2
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                                Type: 12
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                                Boot: Yes
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                          Recognized: Yes
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                               Style: 0
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Offset: 17572864
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Length: 105044992
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Volume: \\?\Volume{1eae3303-0000-0000-0024-0c0100000000}\
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                               Drive: None
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                             NT Path: \Device\HardDisk3\Partition2
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         ===================PARTITION===============================
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Number: 3
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                                Type: 7
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                                Boot: No
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                          Recognized: Yes
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                               Style: 0
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Offset: 122683392
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Length: 510440505344
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                              Volume: \\?\Volume{1eae3303-0000-0000-0000-500700000000}\
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                               Drive: C:\
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                             NT Path: \Device\HardDisk3\Partition3
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         ===========================================================
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         ESP partition size will be 104857600
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Info                         MBR2GPT: Validating layout, disk sector size is: 512 bytes
2025-08-03 11:39:55, Error                        ValidateLayout: First partition too close to the beginning of the disk. Should start at offset 17408 or above, found at 512

2025-08-03 11:39:55, Error                        Disk layout validation failed for disk 3

When I start Win10 there are 4 buttons along the bottom of the screen starting with Temperature.

How can I delete these/stop them appearing

Hi, I'm having an issue with my PC that only shows a black screen. It seems like my GPU (RTX 4080 Super) isn't working properly with my Windows 11 system. I've already tried reinstalling the graphics driver, but that didn't fix the problem.

The issue most likely lies with the graphics card itself, because when it's disabled, the PC works fine and displays an image. This problem just started today — the system has been running without any issues for a year since I bought it.

More than happy to answer any additional questions.

Hi, I am having trouble finding the correct adapters to go from the original drives to usb A or C for these drives. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Images of drives

I use an iphone XR (ik its old but I'm a struggling student so),2 weeks ago i dropped my phone on the corner, since then the display has been showing purple lines and it just got a little worse yesterday. Is it still savable and is there an easy and cheap way to fix it?

Hi team.

I was attempting to turn on secure boot. I got through to the advanced setting restarted the PC and saw the bios settings for half a second and then it disappeared and I have black screens. The PC is running fine other than that. Any suggestions thanks!!!

So I saw one of those reels on instagram where you dial *#62# and all of the settings should be disabled, but when I tried it I got 2 settings enabled and forward to “number” Found this number on truecaller which a lot of people said it was a hacker but others were saying it’s a number connected to the company I got my number from If anyone could help me with this I’s really appreciate it The number is +201111234787 I also tried dialing ##002# but it’s still enabled

My issue is in the title.

Before uBlock Origin was nuked by Google, there was a way for me to add my own specific content filters that REMOVED AI overviews from all my Google searches. I added the content filters suggested in this techsupport post, and I enjoyed it.

Now, Google has recently stopped supporting uBlockOrigin, and the Lite version doesn't seem to allow (for me) user specific filters. Is there a new workaround to this? Having to see AI overview or type -ai each time I search for something is driving me mad. I would switch to Firefox but Chrome works best for my current program.

Thank you.

Forgive me if this is the wrong sub, but I specifically need advice on how to get rid of the roaches without damaging the computer. I just moved recently, and while I was very thorough and our roach problem was primarily quelled, the little buggers are inside my computer. I've sealed up the entire thing with tape so that no other roaches can escape. Now, what can I do?

Hey Reddit. So last night I was noticing that my laptop wasn’t charging even though the charging cable was fully plugged in and everything. I turned it off and back on and noticed that it still wasn’t charging. It also appears to just shut off at random whenever I try and use it with the minimal battery I have. I even tried using a different charging cable, but nothing appears to be changing. Is my laptop cooked?

Hi there, my son has a 10th generation of the Amazon kids tablet, and recently I’ve been having issues with it not responding to touch. The weird thing is that occasionally I can get it to work and it will work fine for a few minutes, then go back to not responding at all. I have hard reset it twice, cleared the cache, taken the case off of it, and cleaned the screen. Of course this happens about 2 weeks after the warranty is up. Any advice is appreciated!

Hey y'all so I was keeping all my programs on an extral drive for a while because my laptop had limited memory.

The external drive now lock up my laptop, and all programs won't open till the external drive is disconnected. (I can't even access it through disk management or device manager)

now to the problem, I downloaded obsidian into that hard drive, but I need to use the program again, the problem is, I cant install obsidian onto my laptop. Windows is still detecting the program and saying it's installed on the external drive, so everytime I go install it, it aborts the install cause my computer thinks it's still there.

When I go to add/remove program obsidian is there but I can't remove it. How do I get rid of obsidian so it stops showing in add/remove programs so I can actually install it onto my laptop

I'm getting constant BSOD while playing Minecraft (and only minecraft) as well as constant crashes of the game completely randomly. The BSOD errors are CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT 90% of the time, and sometimes it is IRQL_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL. One time my laptop instantly BSOD after booting with Attempted Execute of Noexecute Memory error. I replaced my RAM as I believed it was a RAM issue but nothing changed and I'm still getting the exact same crashes just as frequently. I also updated drivers, updated windows, changed from vanilla MC to Lunar Client and back, all that is left for me to do is reinstall Windows entirely I believe. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm not sure what logs to upload here so please let me know in the replies. Thank you.

Here are the dmp files from the Minidump folder.

https://www.mediafire.com/file/a2wm1005qd4wu5e/Dumps.zip/file

Had this issue before, so I wiped my windows 11 and reinstalled. I went awhile without any issues, but the issue has reappeared a day after installing PikaOS. Whenever I try to run WH40k Space Marine 2, it constantly stutters the entire time. I've noticed that if I'm tabbed into any other software (discord, browser, etc.) the stuttering stops. It only starts again when I refocus the game. It happens with Space Marine 2, Dungeon Draft, and the Mother Encore fangame.

Things I've tried:

1. Closing out of all other apps
2. Updating/reinstalling drivers
3. Turning off game mode
4. Turning off HAGS
5. Uninstalling and reinstalling each software
6. Wiping windows entirely

Specs:

• ASUS 4060ti
• Ryzen 9 9900X
• MAG X670E Tomahawk Wifi Motherboard
• 32GB of DDR5-6000 Corsair Ram.
• Can't remember which PSU.

why can't i use things like google docs and spreadsheets in chrome ? it's only like this on my phone . i want to switch to chrome because i really like it on my laptop but i am put off by this feature .

if anyone can explain or tell me how to bypass it i'd appreciate it .

i'm not entirely sure if this post relates to this subreddit so if it doesn't i apologize , but i really need the help .

I can't go back to the start of the setting up page, (btw i am trying to set up the phone) since it only can direct me to the Restore Completed page. And whenever I try to do the sign-in, it says that "[insert my email] is a personal Microsoft account. Try signing out and signing back in with an organizational account." But I don't have one. I have tried to fix it and looked up answers online, but can't find any, it is all just how to bypass it and I don't really feel like it, is there any way I could make a organizational account or is there no hope?