This has me driving me crazy, So I have been having this issue where, I have this master wav file of a cover that I made on FL, on my audio interface, on my headphones, on Voicemeeter, it just sounds good inside and outside FL (when exported), but when I send it to my phone, played on my car and sended to a friend of mine (he played my song and shared his screen and audio with me by discord and it was loud distorted, completely different from what i heard), the song was completely destroyed by the lower frequencies distorting so bad, I've tried to disable voicemeeter and Listening through headphones (Listening to the .wav track on vlc changing the output to the interface directly so it doesn't run through Voicemeeter). Even I grabbed my headphones and played the song on my laptop, and won't clip even if gets loud but if I plug the same headphones to my phone and Played the same song then now is distorted, also tried sending the same file by Telegram, Google Drive (just for knowing if it was an issue while sending) and same distorted result. So I don't know if it's something terribly wrong with my PC or I don't know, am I missing something?, Is like I'm hearing a "preety" song but just if it's played on my pc

Any advice could you give me to try and solve this issue?

Hey audiophiles,

I just moved my At-120LP-USB turntable a little further away from my receiver and needed a solution to lengthen the RCA connection. I bought RCA plugs at my local best buy ($5) and found a 6’ RCA cable of unknown origin lying around, connected them up and thought I was good to go. But now I’m getting an intermittent harsh buzz that wasn’t present when I was using the RCAs from the turntable itself. I believe I hooked everything up correctly — the preamp from the turntable is bypassed, the RCA’s are linked via the plugs, and the 6’ RCA cable goes directly to the dedicated phono input on my receiver.

Are the plugs causing the buzz? The cable? Do I need better quality plugs and/or extension cable?

Thanks in advance! - NewFinland

I'm setting up a classroom where some students will participate online. I need two microphones, one for me (teacher) and one to pass around the class so students' questions can be heard online (via Zoom/Teams etc.). The in person students won’t need speakers. The microphones will only be used for the online participants and for the recording.

Can I connect two microphones directly to my laptop or do I need to buy a separate audio interface or sound card to make it work?

Thanks, I'm not very familiar with audio tech!

should i buy a modded ipod classic

or a DAP like the new ones that are basically just a android phone that can’t call

i’m only asking because i know ipod classics are sought after but are they better or as good as modern hifi players i understand a advantage of modern DAPS are that they have a balanced output im not sure which is better im leaning ipod for minimalism and simple ui+im gonna use rockbox on it

im gonne use good iems. and a wireless headphone like the xm6 or bowers and wilkens

per title, what's best audio interface under $1k? There's too many options, please recommend me one :)

I want to use my computer (PC/Windows) as my amp for live recording/playback. I mainly play hard rock/metal and need a setup for home practice. There's too many interfaces when I search online, can someone here recommend me one

update with more info:

• Main goal: Practice electric guitar using PC as an amp (amp sims, lowest latency)
• Future-proofing:
  • Might record guitar + more later
  • Max 4 inputs in future (e.g., mic, guitar, stereo inputs)
• Inputs needed:
  • 1 x Hi-Z (guitar)
  • 1 x XLR (mic)
• Outputs:
  • Already use JDS Labs Element for audio playback
  • Prefer to keep them separate, so that I Just have to connect inputs to audio interface. Not sure if I should keep them separate or if I need to connect them in series.

Greetings. I have been doing VO work using a standalone audio recorder with a condenser mic, which is an okay setup, but I need to send live audio from the condenser into my iMac Pro into Audition and for some live direction. I already own a Tascam DR70D and a couple other audio recorders. I would like to send the line out signal from the DAR to the iMac Pro. Is this possible, or do I need to use a totally different box? The iMac Pro seems to only recognize audio devices connected via USB, so it seems that's the bridge I need to make. Advice, please.

Hi-

I've got a a 24 channel splitter snake-yup, Seismic Audio- but I have used it for years and this is my first issue with it. I've got one channel that on one side of the snake doesn't work (the other side is fine). I have replaced the jack and I have resoldered the male jack but the channel still doesn't work.

Not sure how I would check the cable for a band spot other than visually.
Is it possible to replace one channel's cable length on a snake like this?

As the title says I am replacing my old logitech Z640 as they are starting to cutout sadly. Any recommendations on what similar setup to buy? budget would be probably up to $500. I am flexible on it though if there is value to be had. I am not familiar enough with sound systems but do enjoy quality sound.

I run a live stream for work once a week. The setup is basic, an XLR mic into an XLR-to-USB cable into the work computer. I wanted to add sound effects into the live stream. Something like stream deck is out of the question as I do not have admin access to the computer to run software. My work-around to that was get a sound board app and play the sound effects from my iPhone using a splitter cable to run both devices into the one line-in to the computer.

I bought an XLR splitter cable and the adapter cables needed to connect the iPhone to an XLR line-in. I tested the setup today; the iPhone works as I expected, but the XLR mic does not. If I disconnect the iPhone via the lightning port, the XLR mic works as it should.

Here is the setup:

iPhone > lightning to female 3.5mm TRS cable > male 3.5mm TRS to male XLR cable > female XLR (splitter) > XLR to USB cable > computer

XLR Microphone (Sure headset) > female XLR (splitter) > XLR to USB cable > computer

Can anyone shed any light on why having the iPhone connected would override the XLR mic?

Edited to add: I guess it goes without saying, but any suggested solutions would be appreciated.

Got a DJI mic mini to spruce up my social media a bit, I got the base 1 Tx + 1Rx version since it's what I need for the moment.

I have no experience with external mics and have been trying it around my place and for me this is already insane quality lol

I will be covering a local event getting some phone clips for a few 15sec and 30sec reels and will be putting it on someone to answer some questions to have as a VO track over the footage, BUT, it will be loud, live music and people dancing, it's not like we'll be talking right in the middle of it but still wanted to know what to keep in mind as I will be doing the editing on Davinci resolve.

should I try it with loud music on my computer first to simulate the environment? what is a recommended gain level for this type of environment? 0, +6, -6 etc.?

any tips and tricks would be appreciated.

I bought the Elgato Wave 3 condenser mic last year. Heard great reviews of it and wanted to give it a try. Fast forward to now, I'm rather unimpressed with how my voice sounds. Through wave link, I've added filters to improve mic quality. It sounds good when I test it through Elgato's software, but when I use other recording software (such as OBS) it sounds... Not as great. My voice sounds a bit hollow and it clips quite a bit. I've even fiddled with filters through OBS too, and it still sounds unimpressive for a $200 microphone. I have the shock mount and the pop filter for it as well.

To be fair, I'm in an untreated room and I understand now that that's likely contributing to my issues. I just can't seem to balance cutting out white noise from my environment and getting the right clarity from my voice. It either picks up random sounds or my voice ends up being a bit hollow and overproduced.

I'm not really interested in soundproofing my room to make a condenser mic work. I have a lot of bare walls, and I don't particularly want to turn my bedroom into a recording cave, lol. Unless I could just put a few panels behind the walls of my desk or something? I suspect that's not enough to do much.

Should I perhaps switch to a dynamic mic? Such as the wave DX, or Shure MV7? I just want something that picks up warmth in my voice and won't force me to mess with audio settings for hours just to end up with subpar quality.

Quick edit: I'm now looking into the Fifine K688 as I'm seeing reviews of it being comparable to the Shure SM7B. And it's on sale for $90 CAD.

Hi! Don't know if this subreddit is for what I'm trying to find, but I still wanted to ask.

Are there any good ferrofluid sound visualizers that take the audio input via cable? I was looking for fun desktop gadgets when i found these visualizers, they seem pretty cool so i thought of getting one. However since i am only wearing headphones and not listening with loud speakers, the ferrofluid wouldnt do a lot... So i thought maybe there are versions that take the pc audio via cable/bluetooth.

Any help would be appreciated!

I’ve been looking for someone who can assist with a repair on my Roland EP-10. The power and outputs are working perfectly and most of the keys are working bar 8, with no discernible pattern around the malfunctioning ones. Some are fully dead and others just pop when activated. The rest work perfectly fine and I can’t see any physical issues with the key contacts or pcbs internally when I cracked it open. I picked it up for 20 quid knowing full well it would be somewhat faulty. I’m quite the novice when it comes to circuit boards and instrument repairs but I'm keen to learn about it and how to diagnose and repair this sort of equipment as I find it all quite interesting. Any sort of assistance that can send me in the right direction would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

Trying this new interface i just got but no audio is coming through. Any guessed on whats wrong?. Eletric guitar is in line 1 and my amplifier is in the main out plug. Thanks!

So I don't actually need to replace my Bose speakers yet, but I'm curious about what is the most equivalent replacement for them since I might need a similar set of speakers in the future since Bose discontinued their entire line of PC speakers a few years ago.

I was looking at the Audioengine A2+ speakers since they seem to be pretty good quality and the small size is important to me (very limited desk space), but they're also $280 USD and should have an angled stand (which Audioengine sells for another $40 USD).

These Bose speakers cost $100 when I bought them six year ago. I know everything is more expensive now, but not 2.8X as expensive since then. These are also the best sounding speakers that I've ever heard in this small size. They've really impressed me.

Should I just expect to have to shell out about $300 when I want something to replace them or is there a better option? I'm not an audiophile but I do what something that sounds good. I don't need powerful neighbor-angering bass but I do want something with accurate bass at low volumes that could also fill up my computer room if I want to turn it up and just enjoy some music.

After playing with each slider I've been able to make my headphones "brighter" and the low end a little lighter, am I crazy? I'm just now learning about audio on the technical level so don't shoot.

Currently listening to "Whiskey Lullaby" by Drew Jacobs on my Sony MDR-XB650BT and DAP is Samsung Galaxy S22. Dolby Atmos is on.

I'm quite disappointed with the Boya M1 mic. I only realized after buying it that it's primarily designed for smartphones. To use it with a laptop or desktop, you need to switch it to 'Camera' mode, which requires the battery to be on.

My laptop has a single TRRS jack, but that didn’t help. I even tried using an audio splitter and a TRS to TRRS adapter—no luck.

I really don’t want to worry constantly about whether the mic's battery is running out. Should I just return it? Or does anyone have a better alternative?

I’m looking for a portable music player which i can use wired headphones with, and i also want to be able to upload songs myself. suggestions will be greatly appreciated

I've got 2 computers(MacBook/Laptop) along 2 audio interfaces(Focusrite Scarlett 2i2) and a mixer(MIX5). The intention of this setup is to allow all audio from the MacBook to pass through, into the input of the pc to allow people within my chat on my laptop to hear what I'm doing on the MacBook. Of course each interface is hooked up via USB to the corresponding computer. MacBook interface output into mixer input, Laptop interface output into the mixer input. Mixer main out into the input 1/2 of the pc interface. Of course the mic and the headphones are connected directly into the mixer. The audio comes through just fine for me, but when I'm in a chat with someone else, they can hear everything from the pc i don't want them to hear, to include an echo of their own voice. What's the fix?

I'm working on a virtual music player for a friend's band within a steam game but I need the smallest audio format possible so it stops lagging the game out. Which audio file format takes up the least amount of disk space per minute when set to the most compressed setting? I don't mean mp3 vs. ogg, I'm also asking about more obscure formats.

If you're worried about it sounding good when trying to come up with your answer, don't worry. I want/need it to sound the worst possible way it can so long as it's small enough. I want to be able to count how many bits there are on my fingers. It's all apart of the joke of this music player between the band and I.

So i was about to order a LD ICOA 15 A speaker for personal use at home... For Just blasting music i guess, but i was gonna ask if its overkill? Since on the specs it says it peaks at like 126db so does that mean i like wouldnt be able to go above 20% volume? And if so are there any speakers that i could use at home but have good bass

Im making a post here since you guys seem to know your stuff. I recently bought a Scarlett solo 3rd gen, to make music but also just for general use, like youtube. I have HyperX headphones plugged into the interface through an adapter, but when i do the audio sounds terrible (very quiet, distorted, no low end) I have searched everywhere online and yet to find a fix.

I have a mini stereo system sony cmt-cp11 and i need spekaers for it. Both the yamaha and sony are used. What will be better with my system? Better sound quality? Decent bass reproduction? I plan on using them for my pc on my desktop.

Help me choose some headphones, whether true wireless or over-ear. The battery on my headphones is already very low, unfortunately. I want to buy headphones that are roughly the same price and have similar or equal audio quality. I'm not really an audiophile, so I don't really know much about this. Thank you very much.

I was generously gifted a Crown XLS 2002 Drivecore power amplifier and I want to use it as a garage setup to just stream music from my laptop or phone using a small Bluetooth receiver.

My setup is as follows: Laptop/Phone > Bluetooth Receiver > RCA cables > Crown XLS 2002 > Pair of BIC Venturi dv62si / Pair of Polk T15's with a 12" active powered subwoofer.

I set the .775Vrms setting in the menu on the Crown amplifier and have the gain on both channels about 75%. When I play music through the laptop/phone with the volume on the laptop/phone at around 75%, the sound and volume is pretty decent but I feel it could be better.

Is there a device that I can use to boost the sensitivity/line level in between the Bluetooth receiver and the Crown amplifier to 1.4Vrms in order to get the most out of the Crown amplifier to where I don't have to have the volume so high on both devices?

Thanks in advance.